ART-LEATHER CRAFT

Leather craft, is an art of making leather objects from leather and one of mankind’s oldest crafts.

Leather, which is one of the oldest natural resources, can be as hard as wood and as delicate as silk. The flexible, durable and waterproof quality of leather makes it one of the best materials for crafting. Whether left natural or dyed, leather can be used to make items such as bags, wallets, hats, belts, shoes and furniture.

In Uganda, leather products include bags, shoes, sandals, belts, wallets, drums, mats, hats, furniture and many others.

History of leather

The history of leather work goes back to pre­historic times. Long before man started writing, he communicated through simple drawings or sign language. Many of these “messages” were done on animal skins which were killed for food.

Man also used these animal skins to clothe and shelter himself. There after, attempts were made to treat leather in order to make it flexible and durable by smoking the hides and then rubbing them with fat. Break through in leather working came with the discovery of tanning. With tanning, leather is treated so that it does not rot or dry out.

For a very long time, leather was a very expensive material and leather items could only be afforded by the wealthy. However, today, anyone can afford leather products and any craftsman can create beautiful and useful articles out of leather.

TYPES OF LEATHER

Leather is of different types depending on the method of tanning, treatment or the type of hide the leather came from.

For successful leather crafting, you need to understand the different types in order to know which leather type can be easily tooled or carved. Generally, leather is of five different types. These are:

Full Grain: This is the type of leather where the upper layer of the hide including the hair is not buffed, sanded or brushed but preserved with all its natural marks. Such qualities give this type of leather greater strength and durability.

Top Grain: Is the type of leather in which the ‘split’ layer is separated away from the “top grain” layer. After tanning and before colouring, the hide is lightly sanded removing its original texture making it feel plastic-like.

Split: This type of leather is made from the fibrous part of the hide left after the top-grain has been removed. Depending on the thickness of the split, the hide may be split into many layers.

Corrected Grain: After the hide’s top layer has been removed by sanding or splitting, leather looks lifeless and dull. To make it have a realistic and natural look, the leather is usually stamped or embossed creating an artificial texture. Leather found in cars and sofa sets is of this type.

Rawhide: This is an animal hide which has been dried but not tanned into leather. It is generally white or translucent and very stiff and hard. To work with this type of leather, it is usually soaked in water in order to make it flexible

LEATHER MANUFACTURING PROCESS

The leather manufacturing process is a rather lengthy process. However, it can be basically divided into three major phases: tanning, re-tanning and finishing.

Phase One: Tanning

The leather manufacturing process begins with tanning. Tanning is a process in which leather is soaked in a solution known as tannin in order to make it more flexible and durable.

Divided into other processes, the tanning converts raw hide into a stable material that will not decay and suitable for a wide variety of uses.

Leather tanning is of many types as explained below.

Alum tanning: This is where aluminum salts are used to change the skin colour.

Vegetable tanning: This is a tanning method where tannin derived from tree barks and leaves is used to tan leather. This method produces flexible leather mainly used for furniture and bags.

Synthetic tanning: Is where synthetic mineral compounds are used to tan leather.

Chrome tanning: Also known as mineral tanning, this is the type of leather tanning where chromium sulphate is used to change the colour of leather.

Phase Two: Re-tanning

After the first phase of tanning, leather is not yet ready to use. It is very wet and once dry, it becomes rigid. It is also usually stained with various colours used during tanning. Therefore, at this stage leather is re-tanned to make it more workable.

Phase Three: Finishing

This is the final stage in the leather manufacturing process. A complex process that involves other processes such as polishing, embossing and tumbling, this is the stage where the surface of leather is changed both for aesthetic and functional purposes.

LEATHER CRAFT TOOLS AND MATERIALS

There are various tools and materials used in leather crafting. Below are the most basic.

Leather: There are different types of leather as we have already mentioned. Vegetable tanned leather is the best for crafting.

Thread: This is waxed heavy duty polyester or cotton thread used for sewing leather.

Pen or pencil: For drawing lines and marking where to cut.

A ruler or measuring tape: This is needed for measuring leather.

Mallets: These are either rawhide or wooden mallets for hammering stamps.

Rotary punch: For creating holes in leather. Straight edge cutting tool: This is needed for cutting consistent lines and small blips which the scissors may not cut.

Awl: Is a needle-like metallic tool with a wooden handle used for making stitching holes and to pull the thread tight.

Bevel knife: This is a leather cutting knife with one part of its blade slanting. It is used for cutting angles as well as general cutting. Skiving knife: This is used for slicing leather to reduce its thickness. It can also be used for general cutting.

Dyes: Are needed for dyeing leather. Alcohol and spirit based are the best.

Wood stamp: This works as a stamping surface when stamping leather.

Sharpening stone: This is used for sharpening awls, shears and knives.

A swivel knife: Held like a pencil, this is a chisel-edged blade used for outlining and cutting designs into the leather surface. Metallic stamps: These can be bought as a set. Alternatively, you can use wires, mesh, leather strips, nails or screws or any other metallic pieces with interesting textures.

BASIC LEATHER CRAFTING TECHNIQUES Cutting

Leather is usually in irregular shapes. Therefore, to be able to use it, it has to be cut into required sizes and shapes. Below is a step by step process of cutting leather.

• Lay the leather on a flat work surface laid with a rubber mat. The rubber mat is meant to protect the leather from damage. It also protects your cutting tools from being blunted or damaged by contact with the surface.
• Using a pencil and a ruler, mark a light cutting line on the leather surface. Use french curves or any rounded edge for curved lines.
• Place a metallic ruler along the drawn line. Place the tip of a cutting knife along the straight edge of the ruler, cut into the leather.
• Controlling the blade while keeping it pushed against the ruler, cut as deep as you can. Make as many cutting passes as necessary to fully cut the leather.

Casing

Casing refers to dampening leather by wiping both its surfaces with a wet sponge to make it more workable and easily accept stamp imprints.

Dyeing and painting

Leather can be dyed into a variety of colours using dyes mixed with alcohol or spirits. Alcohol helps leather absorb the dyes quickly making colours stay adequately. Shoe polish can also be used to polish and preserve leather making it last longer.Alternatively, leather can be painted. The disadvantage of leather painting over dyeing is that with painting, pigments remain on the leather surface. This may later result into cracking and peeling. With dyeing, the pigments are absorbed into the leather grains.

How to dye leather

• Choose a leather dye appropriate for your leather. _k
• Clean the leather surface to remove all dirt. •Dampen the leather evenly using a sponge. •In long even strokes, apply the dye across the leather surface. Allow the first layer to dry before applying another. Apply as many layers as needed until you achieve the desired shade.
• Allow the leather to dry thoroughly. The average drying time is 1 to 2 hours. Once dry, rub the leather with a clean, soft cloth to remove any excess dye and to give the leather a polished look.
• Applying finishes: Leather finishes such as wax, shoe polish or oil are applied using a soft piece of cloth to protect and preserve the quality of leather. These finishes also seal dyes and stains within the leather preventing colour rub-off.

LEATHER CARVING

Also known as leather tooling, leather carving is the use of metallic tools and implements to cut and compress moistened leather creating three-dimensional designs on its surface. There are various ways in which leather can be carved.

Stamping

Leather stamping is the use of metallic stamps to create impressions onto a leather surface by hitting the stamp with a mallet. Such stamps have a variety of shapes such as flowers, geometric designs, alphabetical letters and many others. In fig 8.7 are examples of metallic stamps while fig 8.8 illustrates how metallic stamps are used to create imprints on the surface of leather.

How to stamp leather step by step

• Dampen the leather with water using a wet sponge. This makes leather softer making it easily accept stamp impressions.
• Next, lay the leather on the working surface with the good side up.
• Position and hold the stamp against the leather surface and strike it firmly using a mallet. This creates an impression on the leather surface. Repeat this process as per your design.
• Allow your stamped leather to dry.

Embossing: This is a very attractive leather decorating technique where designs and patterns are imprinted on the leather surface in form of low relief created by using metallic implements to depress part of the leather while leaving some raised.

Incising: Incising is using a sharp knife such as a swivel knife to inscribe designs and patterns into the surface of the leather. Matting: This technique involves press- pushing some parts of leather surface to the background leaving part of the surface standing out to create patterns and designs. This is done using a matting tool.

Stippling: This refers to creation of textures and patterns on a leather surface by using a sharp pointed tool to create dots on leather.

Tips

• Stamp test on a scrap piece of leather before stamping on your final piece.
• Never use metallic hammers on stamps. Use either rawhide or wooden mallets.
• For good stamp impressions, a firm work surface such as a wood stamp is vital.
• You can create your own stamps by inscribing patterns on a shaped piece of wood.
• You can decorate a leather article by embroidering using coloured threads or decorate using applique or by attaching beads or precious stones.
  

JOINING TWO PIECES OF LEATHER

Two or more pieces of leather can be joined by stitching using thread or lacing using a leather strip. Before joining the pieces, holes are first made through the leather layers to allow the needle or leather strip to go through the leather with ease. Holes for stitching are made using an awl or by hammering pins through the leather. For lacing, a thonging chisel is used to create the holes.

Stitching

Leather is stitched or sewed using an awl or special leather needle using a strong waxed thread. Stitching can be done using either single needle or two needles.

With single needle stitching, one threaded needle is used to sew in and out of the leather in one direction as illustrated.

With two-needle stitching, two threaded needles are kept alternating in and out of holes pulling and tightening the strings.

Types of stitches used in leather stitching

Various stitches are used in stitching as shown below.

Running stitch: Here, the needle runs in and out of the fabric with consistence in stitches and spaces between them.

Whip stitch: Here, starting between layers, push the needle out on one of the outer surfaces of the two leather pieces. Thereafter, begin to whip over the edges to the other side.

Cross stitch: This is a type of stitching where threads cross each other at an angle.

Saddle stitch: With saddle stitch, there is one thread and two needles, one at each end of the thread. To bind two pieces together using saddle stitch, align the holes together and weave two needles through each aligned hole. Pass one needle through the first hole. Pull through until there are equal amounts of thread on both sides of the leather.

Take the second needle and start it through the next hole from the same side of the leather. Start the other needle through the same hole from the opposite side. Grasp both needles and pull through until the stitch is good and tight. Repeat this until you have covered the whole length you intend to stitch. Once you have reached the end point, pass both laces to the back side overlapping about two stitches. See fig 8.18 and fig 8.15.

LEATHER LACING

Also known as thonging, this is the most decorative way of joining two leather pieces. Here, instead of using thread, a strip of leather is used to join leather pieces. Lacing trips can be bought or made by cutting a long strip from leather.

Holes for lacing are much larger in diameter than those for sewing using threads.

They are usually made by a thronging chisel. The lacing strip is sewn through the holes using a lacing needle. Alternatively, you can stiffen one end of the leather strip by gluing it. It is this end that is passed through the holes. See fig 8.16.

Types of stitches used in leather lacing

Various stitches are used in leather lacing as shown on the next page.

Running stitch

Here, the lace runs in and out of leather pieces binding them together with consistence in spaces between stitches.

To make this stitch;

• Cut a slit at one end of the lace. Start between the layers.
• Stitch in and out.
• At the last hole, stitch back through one hole on the backside and up between the layers. Pull tight & trim.

Whip stitch

• Begin by cutting a slit on one end of the lace. Start between the layers, lace over the edge, through the slit to the other side. •Continue lacing over the edge through the next holes around pulling the stitches tight. •When you reach the starting point, stitch below the two previous stitches between the layers.
• Pull and tighten the stitches and push the end of the leather strip down between the layers. Trim the lace close.

Cross stitch

This is one of the most interesting stitches in leather lacing. It is made in two ways. Either by lacing the first round at diagonal and then the second round opposite the first lace making an X or making an X in each round and continue until the whole line is covered. To make a cross stitch;

• Begin by getting a long lacing strip of about 30 cm. Refer to illustration fig 8.19.
• Stitching from left to right, bring the strip up at 1, down at 2.
• Then bring it up at 3 and down at 4 bring it up at 5. Continue stitching across to the end of the line.

LEATHER WALLET STEP BY STEP

Step One: Get the tools and materials.

You will need a strong pair of scissors, a razor blade, a straight ruler, a leather stitching needle or an awl, thread, high bond glue and leather. You can buy leather or cut an old leather bag.

Step Two: Create a design.

On a piece of paper, begin by sketching the impression of the wallet you want to make and its dimensions.

Step Three: Mark the cutting lines.

Lay the leather down on a flat surface with the wrong side facing up. Use a pencil and ruler to draw lines according to your sketches and dimensions.

Step Four: Cut the leather.

Carefully cut the leather along the lines you have drawn above. Use a ruler’s edge to cut clean and precise lines.

Step Five: Create your patterns.

Through stamping or other tooling methods discussed on pages 110 to 111, add patterns onto the leathers’ surface.

 Step Six: Applying the glue.

Carefully apply glue to the wrong side of one of the leather pieces. Allow it about five minutes to dry. Place and smoothen the two surfaces.

Step Seven: Create stitching holes.

Using an awl or pin, make sewing holes along the glued edges. The spaces between holes should be about % an inch.

The holes should not be too wide yet big enough for the needle and the thread to pass through without too much resistance.

Step Eight: Sew the pieces.

Thread your needle and passing through the holes, begin stitching the leather pieces using saddle stitches.

Tighten your stitches while ensuring that the leather pieces do not warp.

Step Nine: Finishing.

When you have come to the edge you are stitching, to finish your stitching, back stitch and make an overlap of about two to three stitches. Pull the string tightly and trim off the excess thread. Your leather wallet is now